My La Palma travel report
A report about La Palma by Simone
I fell in love. With an island. Yes, it's really possible. With its enchanting forests, deep gorges, remote villages, picturesque sunrises and sunsets, beautiful beaches, and leisurely strolling streets, La Palma simply captivated me. Not to mention the stunning natural surroundings.
But first things first. I was supposed to take another week's vacation in October. Since easyJet only offers direct flights on Tuesdays and Saturdays, I flew with Iberia via Madrid. No problem either. Then I returned via Barcelona. So there are many ways to get to Isla Bonita, the beautiful island, as it's also called.
I was greeted by a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius and sunshine, and I set off in a frosty 8 degrees Celsius and drizzle… A very warm welcome! Incidentally, the east side of the island is the wetter and cooler, while the other side is the sunnier. This is perhaps not entirely unimportant, especially during the colder months. But in October, the east side was still just right.
My rental car, which I booked from Germany through Cicar, also ran smoothly – and offered a pleasant surprise. It was a Fiat 500 convertible. Just the right thing for the sunny island! Although driving there is certainly a challenge. Steep, narrow roads, switchbacks, endless potholes off the main roads, and many roads were, in my opinion, more like single-lane roads – unfortunately, there was the occasional oncoming traffic… And the signage isn't always optimal either. But you're rewarded with beautiful views every now and then. There are also plenty of viewpoints to stop at.
What immediately struck me was that the mass tourism that prevails on other Canary Islands is nowhere to be found here. Most of the tourists were individual travelers – who also stayed in hotels, but even more often in vacation homes.
There were also lots of hikers to be seen. And honestly, La Palma is a hiker's paradise! I usually go hiking on my own, at least when I'm traveling with my husband. But it was a bit too risky for me to go all alone. But there are plenty of guided hikes to volcanoes, into the caldera, up Roque de Los Muchachos (the highest mountain), exciting tunnel tours, or through the enchanted forest. During my research beforehand, I came across a great website: gettivity.com . I highly recommend it. Whatever you want to do on the island, it's on offer there—sometimes it even inspires ideas.
In short: I booked two hikes there: Wild North and Enchanted Forest . It's great that the agency lends you rustic wooden walking sticks, which not only look cool but are also really helpful. Because La Palma is mountainous, very mountainous. There isn't a single hike that doesn't involve uphill and downhill sections, sometimes on very steep, uneven paths. The Wild North captivated me with its changing views across the gorges to the sea. Simply fantastic. However, we had to cross several gorges.
And the fairytale forest was so enchanted and jungle-like that even the drizzle didn't bother us (all that greenery has to thrive on something). Arm-thick blackberry vines held the forest in check, lianas hung across the path, and a stream trickled far below us—slipping was not welcome. The nice thing about a guided tour is that the guides provided a wealth of information about nature and the Palmeros, as the people of La Palma are called. Of course, I don't get that if I set out on my own. The groups were also small, and several languages were offered—including German, of course.
According to my hosts, I must have caught a bad weather spell. I didn't realize it. I was able to walk around in a T-shirt, we spent the evenings outside, and I even made it across the Atlantic a few times. So, swimwear should be in your pack, as should an evening jacket or a raincoat!
For those who aren't hiking enthusiasts: you can enjoy great strolls in the capital, Santa Cruz, and in Los Llanos. My favorite beach is Playa Nogales, just 15 minutes from Santa Cruz. From the parking lot on the cliffs, there's a steep path down, past a huge cave (it looks a bit spooky). Below, you'll find a completely empty beach. But be careful: you have to get there early. When the tide comes in, the beach floods. There's even a makeshift shower for rinsing off the black sand (all the beaches are made of black lava sand). The beach has great waves, and it's also popular with surfers. But watch out for the currents; they can be quite treacherous!
Sunsets are especially beautiful from a small, unassuming bar on La Bombilla beach. You have to walk through the banana plantations to get there (there's parking there too), but you're rewarded with delicious food (freshly caught fish and Canarian tapas) and local wine. And the sunset is simply beautiful!
My conclusion about La Palma: I'll be back!
Simone